The Russian volume technique applies multiple ultra-thin lash extensions to each natural lash, creating handmade fans that deliver dramatic fullness without excessive weight. Also known as “volume lashes” or “XD lashes,” this technique gives a more dramatic, fuller look than classic extensions while remaining safe for natural lashes when applied correctly.
Where classic application attaches one extension per natural lash (1:1 ratio), Russian volume uses ultra-fine extensions to create fans of 2-8 or more lashes applied to each individual natural lash. The result is significantly more volume and drama while often being lighter than a single classic extension due to the finer diameter fibres used.
At UK Beauty School, we train lash technicians in both classic and volume techniques, understanding that versatile professionals can serve more clients and command higher prices for advanced services.
The History of Russian Volume
Russian volume lashes originated in Russia (hence the name) around 2010-2012 and revolutionised the lash industry. Before this technique, clients wanting dramatic lashes either had to settle for what classic could achieve or risk damage from heavy individual extensions.
The innovation was recognising that several ultra-fine lashes weighing less than one thicker lash could create more volume safely. This breakthrough allowed lash technicians to deliver the dramatic looks clients wanted without compromising natural lash health.
The technique spread from Russia to Europe, the US, and globally, becoming one of the most requested lash services. Today, volume lashes represent a significant portion of lash appointments in UK salons, and technicians who don’t offer volume miss substantial business.
Benefits of Russian Volume Lashes
Added Volume and Fullness
Russian volume provides significantly more fullness than classic application—ideal for clients with sparse natural lashes who want dramatic results. While classic might make sparse lashes look “barely there” enhanced, volume can create the full, fluffy look often seen in editorial photos.
The technique is also excellent for clients with naturally full lashes who want even more impact. The customisable nature of volume means technicians can create anything from subtle fullness to extreme glamour.
Lightweight Comfort
Despite multiple extensions per lash, volume lashes are lightweight due to ultra-fine fibres. Classic extensions typically use fibres with 0.15mm-0.20mm diameter. Volume extensions use 0.03mm to 0.07mm diameter fibres—significantly finer and lighter.
A 5D volume fan (5 lashes) using 0.05mm fibres often weighs less than a single 0.15mm classic extension. This means clients get more visual impact with less strain on their natural lashes. According to lash industry research, properly applied volume lashes can actually be gentler than classic because the weight is distributed across more attachment points.
Highly Customisable Results
Volume lashes offer unprecedented customisation. Technicians can adjust:
Fan size (2D-8D+): 2D fans create subtle fullness, while 6D or higher creates dramatic glamour. Most clients fall somewhere in the 3D-5D range.
Length variation: Like classic, lengths can be varied across the lash line to create different effects.
Curl types: Various curl options (J, B, C, D, L) create different looks from natural to dramatic.
Mixing techniques: Many technicians use “hybrid” approaches, combining classic and volume for textured, dimensional results.
This customisation means you can create the perfect look for each individual client rather than offering one-size-fits-all lashes.
Often Longer Lasting
Many technicians and clients report that volume lashes last longer than classic. Several factors contribute to this:
Distributed weight: The load on each natural lash is spread across multiple attachment points, reducing stress.
More points of contact: If one lash in a fan comes loose, others may hold, keeping the fan attached longer.
Finer lashes move more naturally: Ultra-fine fibres flex with natural lash movement rather than creating rigid stress.
Step-by-Step Application Process
Client Consultation and Preparation
Before any application, conduct a thorough consultation covering the client’s desired look, lifestyle, and natural lash condition. Assess natural lash health, density, and thickness to determine appropriate volume level.
Cleanse natural lashes thoroughly to remove all oils, makeup, and debris. Apply under-eye pads to separate lower lashes and protect the under-eye area. Ensure the client is comfortable—volume sets take longer than classic applications.
Creating the Fans
Fan creation is the core skill of volume application. There are several methods:
Pinching method: Pick up multiple lashes from the strip, pinch the base to create a fan shape. This is often the easiest method for beginners.
Rolling method: Pick up lashes and roll them between tweezers to spread into a fan. Provides excellent control over fan width.
Shimmy/wiggle method: Pick up lashes and shimmy them apart on the strip before picking up. Creates wide, symmetrical fans.
Lash strip placement: Some technicians work directly from the strip, picking up and fanning in one motion.
Regardless of method, the fan should be symmetrical with evenly spaced extensions. The base should be narrow enough to wrap around the natural lash without creating a bulky attachment point.
Professional training through our Certificate in Eyelash Extensions teaches multiple fanning techniques so you can find what works best for your hand position and working style.
Application Process
Dip the fan base into adhesive—only 1-2mm of the base should be coated. Too much adhesive creates clumps; too little creates weak bonds.
Isolate a single natural lash completely from surrounding lashes using your isolation tweezers.
Attach the fan 0.5-1mm from the lash line, wrapping the adhesive-coated base around the natural lash.
Hold for 1-2 seconds to allow initial bonding before releasing.
Check the bond and ensure no stickies have been created with surrounding lashes.
Repeat across the entire lash line, working systematically to ensure even distribution and consistent volume.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Uneven Fan Creation
Fans that aren’t symmetrical or have uneven spacing look messy and unprofessional. Practice fan creation until consistency becomes second nature. Uneven fans also don’t photograph well—important in an Instagram-driven industry.
Excessive Adhesive
Using too much glue is a common beginner mistake. Excess adhesive creates visible clumps, adds weight, takes longer to cure, and may remain tacky. The adhesive bead on the fan base should be small and controlled.
Poor Isolation
Creating stickies is even more problematic with volume than classic because each fan affects multiple extensions. One sticky can cause three or more natural lashes to shed together, leading to gaps and client dissatisfaction.
Incorrect Weight Selection
Just because the fan is light doesn’t mean it’s appropriate for every natural lash. A 6D fan on a baby-fine natural lash is still too much weight. Match fan volume to natural lash strength—weaker lashes get smaller fans, regardless of what the client requests.
Inconsistent Placement
Fans placed at different distances from the lash line create an uneven appearance. Maintain consistent 0.5-1mm placement throughout the set for a polished, professional result.
Aftercare Instructions for Volume Lashes
Volume lashes require similar aftercare to classic, with some additional considerations:
Keep lashes completely dry for 24-48 hours after application. The larger surface area of volume fans means more adhesive that needs to cure properly.
Use oil-free products only around the eye area. Oil breaks down adhesive, and volume fans have more surface area exposed to products.
Clean lashes daily with a lash-safe cleanser. Volume fans can trap more debris than classic extensions—gentle daily cleansing prevents buildup.
Brush with a soft spoolie daily to keep fans separated and neat. Volume lashes can become tangled if not maintained.
Avoid oil-based products, heavy eye creams, and waterproof makeup that requires oil-based removers.
Sleep on your back or use a silk pillowcase. Side sleeping crushes volume fans and causes faster fallout.
Schedule fills every 2-3 weeks. Volume sets require more extensions, so regular fills maintain fullness.
Never attempt at-home removal—always return to a professional for safe removal.
Classic vs Russian Volume: Helping Clients Choose
Understanding when to recommend each technique helps you serve clients better:
Choose Classic If: The client wants a natural, mascara-like enhancement. They have full, healthy natural lashes that don’t need additional volume. They’re new to extensions and want to start conservatively. They prefer lower maintenance (classic sets are typically faster to fill). Budget is a concern (classic is usually less expensive than volume).
Choose Russian Volume If: The client wants dramatic fullness and glamour. They have sparse natural lashes that need significant enhancement. They want the “fluffy,” textured look popular on social media. They’re willing to invest in higher-priced services. They understand and will commit to proper aftercare.
Consider Hybrid If: The client wants more than classic but less than full volume. They want textured, dimensional results. They have varied natural lash density across the lash line.
Building Your Volume Expertise
Mastering Russian volume significantly increases your earning potential and service options. Volume sets command higher prices than classic—often 50-100% more—and attract clients seeking premium services.
Our Certificate in Eyelash Extensions covers both classic and volume techniques comprehensively. For technicians wanting to expand their service menu further, our Certificate in Eyelash Lift and Tint offers an alternative service for clients who prefer enhancing their natural lashes.
Ready to offer the premium lash services clients are searching for? Our Certificate in Eyelash Extensions teaches classic and volume techniques from fundamentals through advanced applications. With expert instruction, practical training, and a professional kit included, you’ll be creating stunning volume sets that command top prices. Enrol today and elevate your lash artistry to the next level.
